There are two approaches to answering this question – intuitive and rational. 

Intuitive thinking says: my skin is oily. If I add more oil to it through a moisturizing product, this will increase skin oiliness.

The rational way to think about this issue is as follows: yes, the above is true, but only if I do it incorrectly. 

What is the right way? Let’s see.

Let’s go into detail.

What is oily skin?

Oily skin is not a verdict. It is just one of the skin types, together with dry, normal and combination skin. Sebum production plays a vital role in skin hydration through glycerol, which is necessary for an overall skin barrier. 

In addition, sebum delivers lipids to the skin’s surface (epidermis) that can help prevent transepidermal water loss. But excess sebum production leads to oily skin. The reasons are different.

Genetics and hormones, specifically androgen hormones, play a role in causing oily skin. Diets rich in processed, sugary, and convenience foods can impact oil production and contribute to oily skin.

One of the downsides is the possible appearance of acne. Oily skin can have benefits like a dewy and glowing look and may decrease wrinkles.

But why is skin hydration important, and why can skin dryness have the opposite effect?

How can dehydration cause an increase in oil production?

It may sound counterintuitive, but when the skin becomes dehydrated, it tries to compensate for the lack of moisture by producing more oil. 

This is because the skin’s natural oil, or sebum, helps to keep the skin hydrated and lubricated. The purpose is to prevent further water loss and to protect the skin. 

This overproduction of oil can lead to clogged pores, breakouts, and an overall oily appearance.

Additionally, when the skin is dehydrated, the outer layer of the skin (called the stratum corneum) can become weakened and compromised. 

This can allow irritants and bacteria to penetrate the skin more quickly, leading to inflammation and breakouts. Therefore, it’s crucial to maintain a balance of moisture in the skin by using a moisturizer and staying hydrated. 

This can help prevent the overproduction of oil and keep the skin looking and feeling healthy.

Well, now we see that not hydrating oily skin is not the right thing to do. Just the opposite.  Then what should we do? We should moisturize the skin, but adequately.

For what ingredients should I watch on the label?

If you have oily skin, there are several active ingredients that you can look for in your skincare products to help manage your oil production:

• Salicylic acid helps to unclog pores and exfoliate the skin, which can help to reduce oiliness and prevent breakouts. It can protect against acne.
• Niacinamide helps to regulate oil production and can also help to reduce inflammation and redness.
• Niacinamide strengthens the skin’s protective barrier, builds proteins, and locks in moisture to protect it from environmental stressors such as pollution and UV rays.
• Zinc is an essential mineral for skin health and can help to regulate oil production.
• Tea tree oil has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that can help to reduce oiliness and prevent breakouts.
• Witch hazel is a natural astringent that can help to tighten pores and reduce oiliness.
• Aloe vera has soothing and hydrating properties that help balance oil production and calm irritated skin.

OK, but it is not only the ingredients that matter. It is about the type of moisturizer you will pick up for oily skin to produce the right effect.

What moisturizer should I choose?

You have two options here: to use an oil-in-water emulsion or to use an oil-free moisturizer.

Let me explain.

A moisturizing product is typically an emulsion. It is a dispersion of two or more immiscible liquids. It is a mixture of liquid substances that cannot and would not naturally mix.

For the most part, emulsions are a mixture between water and an oil element that is achieved by using an active agent to help reduce the surface tension of the water.

There are two core types of emulsions.

The oil-in-water emulsion is suitable for normal to combination skin. It has around 75% water and 20% oil in its formula, while the emulsifier is 5%. It is more suitable for oily skin, which you should consider.

The water-in-oil emulsion is suitable for dry skin. The formula has 30-40% oil and 50 – 65% water.

The second suitable option for oily skin is an oil-free product that won’t clog your pores or contribute to further oiliness. 

Some ingredients to be careful with

Fragrances can irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions, especially for sensitive skin.

Alcohol can be drying to the skin, and some types, like denatured alcohol, can be irritating.

Silicones can provide a smooth finish to the skin but can clog pores and exacerbate acne.

These ingredients are not necessarily harmful to every individual’s skin; some may be perfectly fine.

It’s always a good idea to do a patch test before using a new product and consult a dermatologist if you have any concerns about your skin’s reactions to certain ingredients.

What else could you do for oily skin?

Oily skin needs to be cleaned regularly to remove excess oil and impurities. However, over-cleansing can strip the skin of its natural oils, leading to more oil production. 

So, washing your face twice daily with a gentle cleanser suitable for oily skin is a good option.

Blotting paper can help absorb excess oil from the skin throughout the day without disturbing your makeup or skincare. 

Touching your face with your hands can transfer oil and bacteria onto your skin, leading to breakouts. Try to avoid touching your face, especially with dirty hands.

If you apply foundation, choose water-based products instead of oil-based ones. Water-based products are lighter and less likely to clog your pores.

To wrap it up

If appropriately used, moisturizer does not increase oily skin. 

The right moisturizer formulated for oily skin can help balance oil production and prevent dehydration, an essential step in any skincare routine for those with oily skin.

In this article, I have covered which rules to follow to pick up the right product and how to avoid excessive oil on your skin while using your skincare.

Thank you for reading!

Valeria